e30, e28, and Z3 Rear camber and toe correction kit instructions

E30 AND E28 CAMBER AND TOE CORRECTION KIT INSTALLATION GUIDE

Disclaimer

Technical Information/Advice Use-At-Your-Own-Risk-Disclaimer: We offer all email, telephone, and posted technical information / advice on our site TO BE USED AT YOUR OWN RISK. We offer no guarantee that your interpretation or skill in implementing the information we provide will achieve your desired result. Use common and be safe. We are not responsible for injuries or damages.

The symptoms

These brackets are a must to be able to align the rear of your classic bmw. That's especially true if you have lowered your car. Some pictures of the symptoms:

Excessive negative camber:

e30 negative camber

Toe on a lowered car (no adjustment)

e30 toe settings

Parts needed:

  • Garagistic toe and camber correction kits
  • 33321095102 - Eccentric Bolt
  • 33306786186 - Eccentric Flat Washer
  • 33326760668 - Self-Locking Collar Nut
  • Subframe diffrential reinforcment (optional but a great preventative maintance while your there)

Tools

  • Electric dremel or die grinder
  • Carbide endmills
  • Tig welder (although mig works as well tig is better for this job)
  • File
  • Level
  • Clamps
  • Common sense and safety equipment

Each garagistic "kit" includes 4 brackets. This is enough to do either camber or toe. You need to order 2 kits to make the rear subframe fully adjustable for both camber AND toe. The subframe has 8 mounts (2 mounts on outside and 2 mounts on each wheel). So, to correct camber the brackets go on the inner mounts (closest to diff), and toe would go to the outer mounts (closest to the wheels). The camber brackets (inner tabs) should be welded with the slots going up and down. The toe bracket (outer tabs) slots should be horizontal.

e30 toe and camber correction kit

Set initial ride height and if possible get your current alignment specs

To make sure you get the amount of correction you need we always recommend that you set your final ride height first. It is then best to go to an alignment shop and see where the camber and toe values stand the way they are. This will tell you where the brackets should go. We know that it is not always easy to go to an alignment shop for values first, but this is the ideal way to do it. These instructions and pictures will show the placment that will benefit most lowered e30s.

Camber correction

Make sure that you are putting the brackets straight. For this, we use a level. Make sure your workspace is level before you start, this will help make sure everything is 100% straight. The subframe bushing area is an excellent place to check this.

To correct camber, the brackets added to the inner trailing arm pickup points (closest to the diffrential) and must be oriented vertical (up and down). With the bottom of the slot at the original mounting hole you will get 1.25 degrees of positive camber correction. If you have your alignment spec sheet and need more than 1.25 degrees correction in the positive direction move the bracket up accordingly.

Once the plates are located in the place you want them, tack them in place. A clamp will help quite a bit here, although you could also use your eccentric hardware to hold them in place. If you are mig welding make sure to use antisplatter so nothing gets on the adjustment plane. Once tacked, remove the bolt and complete the weld. We prefer TIG welding in this process. Less mess and more precise.

We prefer to weld brackets in place before slotting. This makes it much easier in our opinion.

Picture below shows the position for 1.25 degrees positive camber correction (which is enough for most e30s).

 

bmw camber correction

Slotting the mounting points

This is where a die grinder and and carbide endmill will save you alot of time. Using all proper safety equipment, you can start to slot the holes. Use the brackets as a template, but try not to touch the bracket with the endmill. Patience here is key! After you're done, file down all sharp edges. Use care here.

Toe correction instructions

The toe brackets are installed in almost the same fashion as the camber kit. The major diffrence is that the bracket get centered to the existing mounting hole as pictured below.

Toe brackets are added to the outer trailing arm pickup points (closest to the wheels/subframe bushing mounting point) and must be oriented horizontally (not up and down!). Centering the hole with the slot in the bracket will get .625 degrees of toe correction in either direction. Again, this would be the time to take a look at your initial toe alignment spec sheet and adjust as needed.

The procedure here is the same as the camber brackets, once brackets are in a place you want them (and are level), tack them in place. A clamp will help quite a bit here, although you could also use your eccentric hardware to hold them in place. If you are mig welding make sure to use antisplatter so nothing gets on the adjustment plane. Once tacked, remove the bolt and complete the weld. We prefer TIG welding in this process. Less mess and more precise.

We prefer to weld brackets in place before slotting. This makes it much easier in our opinion.

Picture below shows the position for .625 degrees toe adjustment in either direction (which is enough for most e30s).

 

e30 toe correction kit

e30 camber adjustment

Its a good idea while your here to reinforce the mounting points on the diff mounts using our kit. They are found here:

http://store.garagistic.com/ocart/bmw-e30-parts/e30-performance-parts/e30-rear-diffrential-reinforcment

rear differential reinforcment

 

Be sure that the metal is cleaned and prepped before welding. Below is an example of a powdercoated subframe.

e30 adjustable rear subframe

e30 rear subframe