Ares: E30-LS1 – Removable Wiring

Now that we have a removable radiator core on the ARES LS1 Swapped E30, we can now do some cool stuff with the wiring. Here, we decide to route the wiring inside the driver fender and make a removable connector, similar to the C101 or X20 connector conveniently mounted on the side of the inner fender wall, near the ABS pump.

There is one major goal to executing this somewhat complicated arrangement of mechanical & electrical workarounds. And that is our ability to get access to the front of the engine in 1, 2, 3. Quite literally. 1. Unbolt the complete support. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector on the driver side fender, and 3. Pull the entire subassembly forward, headlights, bumper, valence, and all!!

Pinouts and detailed routing will be described in the actual write-up, so if you’re ever interested in executing a clean swap like this, then the write-up will detail every step of the way including pinouts, tools, specific parts used, and the overall intention of the design with regards to the affected components (Headlights, turn signals, electric fan…etc).

The final product will be grommeted, painted, and polished for ease of installation.

Here we used a simple X20 or C101 connector from an any E30, E34, E32, E23, E24...etc. We needed both the male and female end so that the connection would be removable when needed.

 

The electrical hookups were easy. When you source the X20/C101 connector, you have 2 options.

1. Source an X20/C101 connector (both male/female), pins, and wire of proper gauge and build this assembly yourself. Part Numbers will be presented in the write-up, along with suggested pinouts. Remember that there are high-gauge wire needed for the electric fan,  headlight power, and ABS power. Lower gauge wire is acceptable for turn signals and other ABS signals.
2. Go to the junkyard and source your own X20/C101 connector both male and female. You must unplug the connectors, cut about 6-12” of wire, and then crimp The E30 body wiring to that connector assembly. I recommend crimping over soldering. It's easier, cleaner, and it's preferred on aircraft flight deck panels! How awesome is that!?

The wiring bundle shall be cut at or near where the wiring is to be terminated at the driver fender.  Take that  bundle and snake it at the fuse box through the hole available and through the tunnel in the driver-side fender frame rail. Out it comes at the front of the tunnel and snakes to your connector.

And that is the installation in a nutshell. All in all, there is not much to it. But it does add value if what you're going for is an easily removable system.

Stay tuned as we continue to brief you on more info as we continue to build this LS1-E30!